Can you do posh 1630 for a photoshoot in Bolsover Castle? For next week? A friend asked… well, I have quite a lot of kit, but my 1630 and 40 is middle upper class – but since I could get a few days free for making a new gown, and indeed I already had all the fabrics to make a stock 1630 frock, the answer was yes… The shoot was for English Heritage magazine, advertising masque event happening in Bolsover in July.
Since I had just a few days to play around with the frock, I decided to go for the styles I was familiar with – but also use techniques and information from a recently bought book – Seventeenth Century Women’s Dress Patterns ( fantastic book, and volume 2 is just as good as volume 1, invaluable resource). I decided to base my bodice on the slashed Ivory satin bodice ( p.70) but to go for tabs instead for peplum – in the styles of a few of Maria Henrietta’s outfits. ( the inspiration board here)
Bodice, though based on a relatively uncomplicated pattern was tricky due to the amount of layers…
Bodice foundation in linen and linen canvas. there are 2- 3 layers in places, and they are boned with reed
bodice put together, boned and lower edge bound
the inside showing the layers
Once the foundation was ready, the bodice was covered with satin. It was time to prepare the tabs, wings and lacing strips…
tabs – silk satin, decorated with silver metallic lace
lacing strips, 2 layers of linen, v=covered with silk, handworked eyelets
preparing the wings – they are boned with reed too
Tabs attached
time to place the wings on….
It was time for the sleeves next – the sleeves were made separately in silk satin, lined with white slilk, with the head partially cartidge pleated. they were sewn into the armholes using a string silk thread.
The skirts were very simple – shaped panels were cut, sewn, decorated and lined – the skirt was then cartridge pleated to the waistband
pleating
the last corrections and the stomacher could be made, and lace attached
On the day the dress was worn over a chemise, 2 petticoats ( a silk and a wool one – it was a bit nippy!) and a bumroll. The bodice was very comfortable, keeping all the things in and I was able to stay in it for about 6 hours including some stately dancing:-)
Very pleased with it – This particular gown has already been sold on to another dancing lady, but I do need one of my own – and I have an eye on a nice Olive satin – gold lace already purchased….
The results on the day:
and the spread in the English Heritage members magazine….
Fabrics:
Silks – James Hare
metallic lace – Barnett and Lawson
reed for boning- Vena Cava Design
lace – Tudor Tailor
dodgy wig – Ebay…
clothes the frock and the gentleman’s outfit – Prior Attire, naturally ( and though the dress is now gone, we still have a bumrolls available from my online shop 🙂
photography – Pitcheresque Imagery ( minus the photos as a couple – the local tog offered to snap them for us!)
Cost – fabrics – about £300, not counting the linen; lace – about £60, labour – £300.
A Damsel in This Dress 