The Widow and the Bride – 1910 corset and a modern sheer

LJP_5737

Well, since I had the 1914 mourning dress sorted, I also needed proper underwear. I have never been particularly fond of the WWI fashions, but since we are getting more and more bookings for that period for the summer,  it makes sense to be prepared. Also, since the current WWI interest is going to last for another 4 years or so due to the centenary,  we are bound to be either booked for shows, or to make clothing from that era. And so,  I bought a pattern and decided to have a go at it next time I was due for our monthly Stitch and Bitch session at Sew Curvy.

IMG_20140509_105853

on my way to Sew Curvy – Cuckoo Lane in its spring glory!

PatternNehalenia patterns, 1910 corset – earlier than the WWI, but this type of corset was worn generally till at least mid decade if not longer – a quick look at other sources confirmed it, and so  the decision was made.  I adapted size 12 – with the bust from size 16, as specified by my measurements.

IMG_20140509_125430

materials – bits of cotton broche, black – remnants form other projects. Alas, it  turned out that they cane from different batches and one piece was darker than the other – but the difference in hue would hardly matter on an underwear corset.

boning –  flat and spiral steels enclosed in channels made with herringbone tape.

All components,apart from the lace came from Sew Curvy shop.

 

mock up first…

IMG_20140509_145741

mock up cut in calico…

 

IMG_20140509_152230

mock up boned using masking tape – stupidly I didn’t notice at that point that bones do not go all the way down, so had to trim them later… Irritating…

 

IMG_20140509_153811

mock up on! not too bad, just minor adaptations 🙂

 

IMG_20140509_153925

it felt surprisingly comfortable, and gave a much better silhouette than I had envisaged! loving the smooth fit over the hips.

 

Once I saw how flattering the corset can be, I set to making the real thing with renewed enthusiasm…

IMG_20140509_163301

pieces cut!

 

IMG_20140509_180921

and stitched together…

 

IMG_20140509_180948

seam detail on the outside…

 

IMG_20140509_180959

and on the inside… after the first trials the flat felled seams were a joy to make! the trick is to pre-press the seam allowance on the folding over piece – makes stitching it much , much easier!

 

IMG_20140509_183406

the innards…

then  eyelets were inserted…

IMG_20140510_111054

and then the boning:-)

IMG_20140510_111838

 

the whole thing was bound in cotton binding

IMG_20140510_103316

 

and it was time to try it on…. 🙂

IMG_20140510_121547_edit

not too shabby!

 

very pleased with the fit – just need some nice lace to put on top, and the make and attach suspenders:-)

And while I was having fun with the  kit for my mourning kit, Julia was working on a sweet bridal sheer – a few taster pictures below, official photos not disclosed yet! 🙂

IMG_20140510_103241

sheer mesh, silk satin and lace – divine combo!

 

IMG_20140510_103226

it is progressing well 🙂

 

IMG_20140510_141420

getting there…..

1010706_10152475734479739_7245055694601131663_n

and done!

If you like the look of the sheer corset, check out Sew Curvy courses –  the was a recent course on sheer corsetry, but i believe the dates for the next one will be announced soon!

 

once back home I sorted out the suspenders…

IMG_20140510_220908

trying to puzzle them out was a bit of a challenge at first, but it is not rocket science!

 

and then added lace and a velvet ribbon, flossed the bones for that extra security and fashionable look  –  and the corset was ready.  Here worn over my late Edwardian chemisette and drawers, the stockings and shoes from American Duchess

LJP_5769

 

LJP_5733

 

LJP_5750

LJP_5776

you can see the differences in the different hues of the broche quite clearly here…

 

Altogether, I am very well pleased with the thing – it is comfortable, gives a much better silhouette than I had expected, and above all, serves its primary function – this type of corsets did not aim a waist reduction ( though there is some!), but at streamlining the body, so that the loose, close fitting garments of the era ( hobble skirts especially) looked smooth, flowing down the body in a relatively undisturbed fashion.

In fact, I liked them so much I made 5 others, in different sizes, as a trial batch for our online shop ( news on that shortly) – we will be offering them as off the peg items alongside other corsetry items (  Regency, mid Victorian, late Victorian, early Edwardian) in standard sizes 10-18 🙂

The ones I made as a trial  were photographed one weekend in a WWI undergarment shoot  with Pitcheresque Imagery– a picture-full report on that here – and the teaser below:-)

LJP_5723sepia

 

Advertisements

3 thoughts on “The Widow and the Bride – 1910 corset and a modern sheer

  1. I want to move across the Pond just to take the classes you keep talking about 😉

    This post was quite a treat! I love the new adventure into a different time period.

  2. Pingback: WWI corsetry photoshoot | A Damsel in This Dress

  3. Pingback: Corset 1910 | Stitched Up Corsetry

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s